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Some five-star hotels in China are starting to sell homegrown Chinese boutique wines. Colin Li, head sommelier of The Waldorf Astoria, Chengdu, and Song Runqi of The Four Seasons, Shenzhen, sells the Marselan from Grace Vineyards. Li believes that Chinese Marselan is a rising star, with tourists from northern Europe loving Grace Vineyards’ “New World-style full body, fruit and richness”.

Foreign markets are largely unaware of Chinese Marselan, as almost none is exported, even to nearby Asian countries. Although acknowledging its high quality, Lee feels Chinese Marselan is often too highly priced. Leona de Pasquale, a London-based wine educator from Taiwan, says Marselan is relatively unknown in Taiwan. One big supermarket chain, RT Mart, sells two expressions (Foncalieu’s Ensedune and Salton from Brazil, at the cheaper end of the market). In Japan, Kenichi Ohashi MW, says: “Marselan does not sell well. Japan is a traditional market that prefers wines and varieties with a history.” Roddy Roper, an MW student living in Japan, adds: “While Japanese wine enthusiasts can be quite inquisitive and open, there is no great awareness or demand yet for the variety.” He adds that he is only aware of two Marselans on the market, Domaine Auriol and Foncalieu, both from the Languedoc.

Marselan is growing fast, and is slowly attracting attention, but, with volumes still low enough to keep it below the radar. Success in competitions, marketing and education is still essential to support this variety. A wide variation in quality, style and pricing for Marselan exists, with cheaper wines raising doubts among consumers as to the variety’s potential quality. As tastings have illustrated, not only is the quality there, but Marselan has versatility and ageing potential.